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Justin Furey, Project Manager, icon Mechanical
Recognizing Justin Furey’s extensive experience in VRF installation and project management at Icon Mechanical, this exclusive feature provides valuable insights into the critical factors that determine the success of a VRF project. Drawing from over a decade of hands-on expertise, Furey shares a methodical approach to installation, highlighting key considerations in piping, wiring and system configuration. With a focus on preparation, precision and adherence to best practices, this guide outlines strategies to prevent costly mistakes and ensure a smooth, failure-free startup.
A VRF install overview, that’s worked for me over the years. I’ve been working with VRF for over a decade now. Over the years, I’ve incorporated a methodical approach to installation. My system is built around an Excel-based project planning tool that breaks the job into sections. Before anyone steps foot on-site, I use this alongside LATS or Diamond Builder reports to map everything out. I’ve been following this approach for over 10 years and I have yet to experience a failed startup or a callback.
I’ve worked on VRF projects in every phase of the industry— as a startup tech, mechanic, project manager and service manager. Early in my career, I pushed for involvement in projects from the start to prevent issues that could derail a smooth startup. Any VRF job should have a dedicated line item for this, as I discussed in a previous article.
The Key VRF Installation Factors That Can Make or Break a Project
Aside from the actual startup process, three critical factors determine success:
1. Piping
• Is a twinning kit needed?
• Are the twinning connections handled correctly? I’ve seen fitters cut open the packages and toss the parts into a box, mixing them up. Keep them separate.
• Twinning kits for condensers come with complex directions— think IKEA on steroids. Follow them carefully.
• Are the units properly oriented? If condensers are twinned together, ensure they’re in the correct order.
2. Wiring
• Communication wiring issues can wreak havoc. I once pulled over 130 feet of unnecessary communication wire from a system experiencing failures.
• Addressing must be set correctly, including thermostats. Depending on design and manufacturer, the thermostat may connect to the daisy chain or directly to the unit.
3. System Configuration
• Does your system have branch boxes? Installation methods vary by manufacturer—Daikin differs from Mitsubishi and LG, which can trip you up.
• I once found couplings placed over the factory branch stub-outs for each port on a branch box. The correct approach is to cut or un-sweat before brazing the pipes on.
• Ensure indoor units are connected to the correct ports and properly addressed.
• Depending on the manufacturer, crossed pipes won’t always show up during startup when every unit is in the same mode. To verify, after startup, put all units in fan mode, then run one unit at a time in either cooling or heating.
• Also, make sure the largest capacity unit takes the first port. It’s not always required, but above a certain capacity, it’s best practice.
In some cases, you may need to pipe into two ports.
• If a low ambient kit is specified, ensure it’s installed on the right unit. I’ve seen engineers select placement based on wind direction, only for fitters to swap the condensers.
The Bottom Line
Read the submittals. Read the drawings. Read the manufacturer’s design documentation. VRF isn’t difficult—it’s just unforgiving. No project is beyond saving, but the goal is to avoid getting to that point. The key is preparation. Build the job on paper before anything gets unboxed and the install will take care of itself.
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